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The Difference Between 14k White Gold and Palladium August 11 2015

So you know that you want a white metal band. But what metal alloy should you use? What is the difference between palladium and white gold, and which one is more durable? 

 
Men's Hammer Texture Wedding Band in 14k White Gold

14k white gold and 14k palladium white gold both contain 58.5% pure gold, but are alloyed with other metals to make them more white in color. 14k white gold contains gold, nickel, copper, and zinc. Whereas 14k palladium white gold contains gold, copper, silver, and palladium. 14k palladium white gold does not contain nickel, which is a metal allergen for a lot of people.


Men's Hammer Textured Band in 14k Palladium White Gold

950 palladium (also referred to just as palladium) is 95% pure palladium, and is a “white metal” that is slightly more gray than platinum or sterling silver. Palladium is in the platinum family, and shares many characteristics with platinum – durability, tarnish resistance, and is hypo-allergenic. It is about 1/3 the weight of platinum (it is comparable to the weight of 14k white gold), and about 1/3 the price of platinum. It is a precious metal, and in addition to being used in jewelry, has often been used in catalytic converters. Its use in jewelry is a newer application for this metal, so not all jewelers and jewelry repair shops feel confidant working with it yet, but that is quickly changing. 

 
Men's Hammer Textured Band in 950 Palladium

14k white gold is a hard and rigid metal that is more resistant to scratching than palladium or platinum. Even though palladium and platinum may show scratches and dings earlier than in gold, with palladium no metal is removed when scratched, just displaced. Whereas a gold band will become thinner over time because the metal is slowly rubbed away over time. By comparison, we would say that in the first year, a palladium band will show more signs of wear, due to the evidence of scratches and dings. But, in 20-30 years, the 14k gold band will be thinner than it was originally, whereas a palladium or platinum band would retain its original weight.


Wedding Ring Profiles / Cross Section April 06 2015

What is a ring profile anyways? A ring profile is also known as a cross section. Here's one way to think about it – imagine that you put a ring on a cutting board, chopped it in half, then looked at the exposed edge. That would be the profile. To make it easier to visualize, we've made these drawings of some common ring profiles. 

The comfort fit classic band has a rounded exterior, with a rounded inner edge for a comfort fit. A classic band has a rounded exterior and a flat interior. Classic bands are also sometimes referred to as half-round and low-dome. A comfort fit flat band has a flat exterior and a rounded inner edge. The flat band is flat on the interior and exterior. Flat bands are also sometimes referred to as pipe cut. 

Some profiles that Aran uses in her designs that are not as common. Here are some examples of those. 

The trapezoid band is the profile used in our 5mm and 6mm cushion cut engagement rings. The low-dome band is used in the Three Stone Engagement Ring and the Octagon Engagement Ring, and is available as a plain band. The exterior of our low-dome band is not as curved as the classic band, and has straight sides. The Edgeless Band has a comfort fit interior and rounded outer edges. The Concrete Bands and the Hand-carved Classic Bands have a similar profile. They have a low-dome exterior and a comfort fit interior, but with a rounded outer edge, so that they have no hard edges. 

 

And here is an illustration explaining the dimensions of a band.

 


4 Ways to Choose an Ethical Diamond January 12 2015

You know that you want an ethically and environmentally conscious diamond. That’s great! But if you are like many people out there, knowing precisely what that means is an entirely different story. What exactly is a conflict-free diamond? How is a diamond gemstone related to environmental risk? Here is a guide designed to explain the separate characteristics and benefits of the four types of diamonds that we offer. We’ve very carefully chosen these diamonds to work with because they have minimal environmental impact and high labor standards – we only select sources where workers are treated well and paid fairly.

Octagon Ring with Recycled DiamondsOctagon Ring with Recycled Diamonds

Recycled Diamonds

A “recycled” or second-hand diamond is our standard conflict-free diamond option. It is one that has already been previously mined. These classic beauties are meticulously graded, re-polished and buffed to their original sheen and luster to be placed in new settings. A recycled diamond is, on average, significantly less expensive than a new one. By choosing a recycled diamond, you are not contributing to the more than 150 million carats of new diamonds that are mined from the earth each year. Unlike lab-grown diamonds, second-hand diamonds also have greater availability. But, perhaps one of the best features of recycled diamonds is the allure of time; these gemstones have the aura of having seen different decades and periods in history. It is rare, but some recycled gemstones are so old that they were cut by hand directly at a mine more than a hundred years ago!

Classic Band with Lab-grown Flush-set DiamondClassic Band with Lab-grown Flush-set Diamond

Lab-grown diamonds have several great features that make them another ideal choice for socially and environmentally conscious brides and grooms to be. They are typically twenty to thirty percent less expensive than newly mined diamonds, have extensive options for customization in size, cut, clarity, and color, while still maintaining the exact same chemical composition of a natural diamond. New diamonds from heavily sourced, conflict-zone locations further pollute the surrounding environment and often place mineworkers in danger for shockingly low wages. In contrast, the lab-grown diamonds we work with are created in the Netherlands. No water or air pollution result from their production and only a modest amount of energy is consumed. For this process, they primarily use renewable resources.

Three Stone Ring with Champagne DiamondsThree Stone Ring with Austrlian Champagne Diamonds

If a newly-mined natural diamond is your choice, then choosing a mine that ethically sources diamonds is key. We only work with two diamond dealers for newly-mined diamonds who have proven that they adhere to the highest labor and environmental standards with mine to market traceability. They go far beyond the requirements of the Kimberly Process, which aims to prevent any “conflict” diamonds from entering the marketplace, but relying on the Kimberly Process alone is not enough to insure that a diamond is conflict-free. 

Newly-Mined Canadian Diamonds

Newly-mined diamonds from the Canadian Arctic must adhere to strict standards outlined by the Canadian Code of Conduct and other government authorities. They are all certified as conflict-free and must be cut and polished responsibly. Employees in the industry are paid fair wages, and efforts are made to reduce negative environmental impact as much as possible.

Newly-Mined Australian Diamonds

Similar to Canadian-mined diamonds, newly-mined Australian diamonds are also subject to closely monitored standards that value socially ethical and environmentally responsible practices. One of the more unique aspects of Australian-mined diamonds is the array of natural colors available. They range from translucent yellows, soft chocolate browns, and other earth-tone varieties.

Square Solitaire Engagement Ring with Recycled DiamondSquare Solitaire Engagement Ring with Recycled Diamond

Availability

In our efforts to provide the very best ethically and environmentally conscious diamond options to our customers, we adhere to the strictest standards of traceability that sometimes limit the availability of certain gemstone cuts. Raw diamonds and black diamonds are typically hard to secure as they very often can be traced back to conflict-zones. However, we are more than happy to work with you in your search for the perfect diamond regardless of your varied needs.

3mm Classic Engagement Ring with Recycled Diamond3mm Classic Engagement Ring with Recycled Diamond

Grading

Diamonds larger than .23 carats, which is approximately 4mm in diameter, typically come with a certificate outlining the stone’s grading for cut, color, clarity, carat weight, and origin. Diamonds smaller than this carat weight are considered “melee” and are traditionally loosely graded and will not be paired with an accompanying certificate.

If you would like a diamond other than our standard recycled diamond option, or have any questions regarding specific aspects concerning carat weight and other factors, please feel free to contact us! We will work one-on-one with you to determine your best available options. We can either work with information you supply us, or we can do all the hard “sleuthing” and come up with an ethically and socially responsible diamond we know you will love forever.


Simple Bands by Aide-Memoire Jewelry August 06 2014

We are adding a new line to Aide-Mémoire Jewelry: Simple Bands. Simple Bands are custom-made to order, and are crafted in the United States with 100% SCS certified recycled metal. Since they are not made in-house, it affords lower prices and faster lead times than our handmade bands--taking just 3-4 weeks from the time of order.

(Note: Our handmade in-house rings will have a lead-time of 8-10 weeks, now through mid/late-November, due to travel and teaching an extensive concentrated Metals workshop at Penland School of Crafts in the Fall.)

Clockwise from top left: 6mm Slim Classic in 10k Yellow Gold (shiny), 6mm Slim Classic in 10k Yellow Gold (brushed), 5mm Hammer
Textured Slim Classic in 10k Yellow Gold (brushed), 5mm Hammer Textured Slim Classic in 10k Yellow Gold (shiny)

Simple bands will be offered in a variety of customizations including:
• Men's & Women's styles

• 10k, 14k, or 18k Gold (Rose, Yellow or White), Sterling Silver, and 950 Palladium
• Brushed & shiny finish

Simple band will also be available in a variety of styles including:
• Slim Fitting Flat Band
• Comfort Fit Flat Band
• Hammer Textured Flat Band
• Slim Classic Band
• Classic Band
• Comfort Fit Classic Band
• Hammer Textured Classic Band

We're very excited about this brand new line. Some styles are available now, with more being added in the next couple of weeks. Please email us with any questions you may have! 

 


Colored Gemstones April 01 2014

Green Australian Sapphire Engagement Ring

Diamond engagement rings have only been common practice for the last 75 years as a result of the diamond cartel De Beers' extremely successful marketing campaign to increase demand for diamonds. But what if you are interested in an engagement ring with a colored gemstone instead? Since rings experience more wear and tear than other types of jewelry, what are good options for colored gemstones on a ring that will be worn everyday? Well, to answer these questions is gemologist Roger Dery

Something else to understand, when thinking about gemstones, is the Mohs scale of hardness. This characterizes the scratch resistance of various minerals through the ability of a harder material to scratch a softer material. What is important to understand about the Mohs scale, is that it is a relative hardness scale, so a Diamond (which is a 10 on the scale) is about 4-5 times harder than Sapphires (Mohs 9), but a Sapphire is only about 2 times harder than Topaz (Mohs 8). So when someone says that a Sapphire or a Moissanite are second in hardness to diamond, there is a huge jump in hardness between the those stones and a Diamond, with the Diamond being much much harder. 

Information from Roger Dery (For many of these stones he mentions "exposure", which means they will do better in a bezel setting, because less of the stone is exposed.): 

Mohs 9 - Ruby and Sapphire: generally considered the most durable of the colored gems. If untreated in any way, will hold up very well in most all situations. Even those subjected to 'high-heat-only' still do very well.

Exception: Ruby that has been filled with substances such as glass have a much lower resistance to damage such as abrasion from wear. 

Mohs 8-1/2 - Chrysoberyl including Alexandrite: in my experience Chrysoberyl holds up very well against wear. It does not exhibit severe brittleness seen in other gems - and would be a great stone for regular wear as a ring stone.

Mohs 8 - Spinel: is generally considered a gem that wears well. It is resistant to damage and not just damage from abrasion. 

Mohs 8 - Topaz: can be worn in rings, but some caution should be exhibited. This is especially true with Topaz colored blue because it has been irradiated [and then subsequently heated]. This process has weakened the stone in some way that it does not hold up as well as Precious Topaz - which may, or may not have been treated at all.

Mohs 7-1/2-8 - the Beryl family including Aquamarine, Heliodore (golden Beryl), Morganite, Goshenite wear fairly well in a bezel setting, can be worn in rings though may not be suitable for 'everyday wear'. The heating of any of the Beryl's is done at a low temperature and it is not a factor regarding their durability. Beryl's do have an element of brittleness though not as severe as some other gems.

Mohs 7-1/2-8 - Emerald (of the Beryl family) is not well suited for everyday wear. A totally clean Emerald will hold up as well as an Aquamarine. But, finding an Emerald with that level of clarity is extremely rare. Roughly 99% of all Emeralds have been treated with a filler of some type to (usually) improve their clarity. The filler is likely to not hold up well over time. *Emerald's that have been treated should not be placed into an Ultrasonic cleaner, nor placed under a steam cleaner as this may affect the clarity enhancement substance. **Caveat: Emerald's treated with a specialized process known as "Excell" in the trade are known to have a higher level of durability over those treated with other methods.

Mohs 7-1/2 - Andalusite has reasonable wearability though it does have a slight brittleness. Facet junctions are likely to show wear after only a few years regular wear. 

Mohs 7-1/2 - Iolite in my experience holds up fairly well for hardness 7-1/2. It does, however, have distinct cleavage and a sharp blow in one or more specific directions may cause it to separate into more than one piece. Though, when I have tried to do this in the rough, I have not been successful.

Mohs 7-7-1/2 - The Garnet group is generally thought of as reasonably durable. Facet junctions will show wear within the first few years of being worn. And, the facet junctions may not chip as much as 'crumble' for lack of a better way to describe this. Of the Garnets, the Andradite/Demantoid type is the least durable, and we have found the Pyrope/Almandine/Spessartite group seem to wear slightly better.

Mohs 7-7-1/2 - The Tourmaline group is suitable for rings, though not for everyday wear especially if the top of the stone is exposed. Tourmaline can be brittle, does not hold up well where temperature changes are radical. They are known to be 'chippy' as can be seen along facet junctions that are exposed.

Mohs 6-1/2 to 7-1/2 - Zircon is often thought of as brittle. Zircons heated to high temperatures (over 1,000*C) to convert them to blue are definitely more brittle and show the effects of wear easily. Blue Zircon worn high on a mounting will need refurbishing regularly. Unheated Zircons and those subjected to much lower temperatures (of various colors) are less prone to show wear - and appear less brittle. 

Mohs 7 - The Quartz family (including citrine, rose quartz, amethyst, and smoky quartz) is well known due to being available and popular. Chipping along the crown facets is common, and abrasions from wear are as well.

*as a general rule, at least from me, I don't suggest wearing hardness less than 7 on a regular basis as the wear will become evident well before you expect it. I do suggest moving this type of gemstone into mountings offering great protection or off the fingers or wrist.

Mohs 6-1/2 to 7 - Kunzite is not a durable gemstone. It is brittle, does not resist scratching well, does not repair easily, and has perfect cleavage in two directions. In addition to all that, it has the unfortunate problem of being light sensitive - reducing its depth of color with prolonged exposure to direct sunlight. I have repaired my fair share of Kunzite's and I don't relish the fact that they show up waiting for my handy work. But since they don't wear well over time, they will all eventually need reconditioning. 

Mohs 6-1/2 to 7 - Peridot does not share the fate of Kunzite, though its wear pattern is predictable. Abrasions are readily seen on exposed gems that are frequently worn - and fortunately, a refurbishing is not usually problematic.

Mohs 6-1/2 to 7 - Tanzanite is very popular and goldsmiths have taken to mounting them in lavish and risky ways. Exposed surfaces will show wear in a relatively short time and the perfect cleavage can be a problem. Tanzanite is also heat sensitive - even though it is well known to have been heated to acquire the beautiful blue to purple hues. It is the shock of rapid temperature change that may cause damage. 

Mohs lower than 6-1/2 - Apatite, Opal, Pearls, Orthoclase/Sunstone, Scapolite, Sphene and Sphalerite and other low hardness gems all need special care to be worn in rings. It is generally accepted that these gems are best suited for pendants, pins, brooches or earrings.


Finishes and Care December 02 2013

Metal finishes are a surface treatment. Satin, matte, and brushed finishes are different names often used to describe the same finish, or variations of a non-shiny finish. Since finishes are a surface treatment, they will change with any wear, and will eventually wear away entirely. But finishes can be re-applied from time to time. 

During the course of wearing a wedding band it will acquire scuff marks. This can happen fairly early into wearing a ring, just like a pair of shoes will show scuff marks pretty quickly. Scuff marks (unlike scratches) are superficial – they can be seen but not felt. Scuff marks can be made by hard leather, wood and plastic (such as purses, briefcases, dishes, steering wheels). Scuff marks are a process called “burnishing”. Scuff marks on a matte band will be shiny, whereas scuff marks on a shiny band will be matte. Some people feel that they are not as obvious on a ring with a shiny finish than on a band with a matte finish. Scuff marks can be easily removed by re-finishing the ring.

Scuff marks do not effect the integrity of the ring. So if left, the finish will take on its own patina which is considered to be the normal look of a wedding band. Many people take pride in this as it signifies the passage of time. 

Deeper marks on a wedding band (the kind that can be felt) are scratches, dings, and gouges. No metal is impervious to scratches, and wedding bands take a lot of abuse. Any metal can scratch, but how quickly that will happen depends on metal, care and lifestyle. Some rings (like silver) will change immediately, where as gold, platinum, and palladium rings will hold up much better. Industrial metals like stainless steel and titanium will resist scratching for much longer. Textured bands will hide scratches much better than a smooth wide band. 

Palladium and platinum may show scratches and dings earlier than with gold, but on palladium and platinum no metal is removed when scratched. So over many years a platinum or palladium band will hold up better than gold. A gold band will become thinner over time because the metal is rubbed away.

When caring for your ring, there are two ways you can go. You can try to keep the ring as pristine as possible, taking care not to scratch it, and having it regularly re-finished. Or, you can wear your ring and consider the scratches and dings as evidence of your years of marriage. 

With silver, palladium, platinum, and gold bands, it is important to remember that it is fine jewelry. So if you do not want your ring to bend, scratch or gouge, it should be treated with some care for it to last. Any metal or stone harder than it, can scratch or gouge it. Remove your ring before doing heavy work (like moving furniture or rock climbing), and always store it in a safe spot where you won't lose it. See this blog post about taking your ring off. 

Additionally, be aware that chlorine, especially at high temperatures, can discolor gold jewelry. Do not wear gold jewelry while using chlorine bleach or while in a pool or hot tub.

Many commercial white gold rings have been rhodium plated, or "dipped". Plating is just a thin coating of another metal on the surface of the base metal, and like finishes they will wear away over time. If your ring has a rhodium plating, it will need to be re-plated once a year in order to maintain the look. Rhodium plating is a very toxic process and bad for the environment. I do not plate any of my wedding bands for these reasons. 

Rings can be re-finished from time to time, which will remove many scratches, gouges, and scuff marks. However, every time it's re-finished it removes a little bit of metal making the ring thinner over time. 


Metal Alloys November 07 2013

 

Most gold that is used in jewelry is a gold alloy. An alloy is a substance composed of two or more metals. In the case of gold, in the US, it is denoted by karat. The karat refers to the amount of pure gold in it. 24k gold is pure gold, and is a extremely soft and malleable metal. For jewelry, gold is most commonly seen in 18k, 14k, and 10k alloys, where pure gold has been combined with other precious and non-precious metals (alloying). This alloying makes gold stronger, harder and more durable. It also is what gives gold its amazing range of colors. The carat denotes the amount of pure gold in the alloy. 10k gold contains 41.8% pure gold, 14k gold contains 58.5%, 18k contains 75.2%, and 22k contains 91.8% pure gold. 

Color Comparison of 10k Yellow Gold, 14k Yellow Gold, and 18k Yellow Gold

 Pure gold is always a very rich yellow color. So when talking about colored gold, you are always talking about a gold alloy. It is the other metals that are mixed with the pure gold that give it it’s color.

14k rose, yellow and green gold are all made up of 58.5% pure gold, then the remainder of the alloy is silver, copper, and zinc. It is by varying the proportions of the silver and copper that you get the three different colors. Green gold contains more silver than yellow gold, and rose gold contains more copper than yellow gold. 

14k Green Gold Ring

Rose gold is a gold alloy that is similar in color to copper. This is due to its higher copper content. It is also referred to as red gold and pink gold. It is much more pink in color than 14k yellow gold, but a bit less pink than copper. Pure copper is not a good choice for a wedding band because it tarnishes very quickly, it is extremely soft, and will turn most people’s skin green. Which, is not harmful, just unsightly. 14k rose gold is a great option for someone wanting a copper colored wedding band.

The white metals that I typically work with are 10k, 14k and 18k white gold, 14k palladium white gold and 950 palladium. 14k white gold and 14k palladium white gold both contain 58.5% pure gold, but are alloyed with other metals to make them more white in color. 14k white gold contains gold, nickel, copper, and zinc. Whereas 14k palladium white gold contains gold, copper, silver, and palladium. 14k palladium white gold does not contain nickel, which is a metal allergen for a lot of people. 

Color Comparison of 950 Palladium, 14k White Gold, and 14k Palladium White Gold

950 palladium is 95% pure palladium. Palladium is a metal in the platinum family, and shares many characteristics as platinum – durability, tarnish resistance, and is hypo-allergenic. It is a precious metal, and in addition to being used in jewelry, is has often been used in catalytic converters. It is a “white metal” that is slightly more gray than platinum or sterling silver. Palladium is much less expensive than platinum, but very durable.


Getting The Right Size November 07 2013

Determining ring sizes

Ring sizing is very tricky since fingers can change a whole size depending on the temperature and time of day. It’s always best to get sized several times, by several different people, on different days before ordering a ring. That way you can come up with a sort of average.

Since ring sizes change quite a bit depending on the weather, if you get sized in the winter, then receive your ring in the summer, it will likely fit a bit more snug than you expected, and vice versa. It is common to have any wedding ring or engagement ring re-sized at least once until you get the fit dialed in. 

It’s always best to get sized by professionals using metal ring sizers before ordering a ring. We use the "True Size" ring sizing system

There are printable ring size charts, but those will not give you the correct size. Mostly because a piece of paper or string conforms to the shape of your finger (which isn’t round) in a way that a metal ring will not. Also, if you wrap a string around your finger, then measure it, you are likely to stretch it differently when wrapping it around your finger, or when measuring it on a ruler. And even a fraction of a millimeter off will make for ring that is too big or too small.

Some things to keep in mind and pay attention to when going to get sized:

  • Fingers typically are bigger in the morning and when you are hot.
  • They shrink quite a bit when you are cold.
  • Bigger in the summer and smaller in the winter.
  • They swell a lot when you sleep, and are bigger in the morning.
  • Wider bands fit more snugly than narrow bands, so the width of the ring sizer bands that they used will affect the size. Generally you would go up 1/4 size for rings 5-6mm wide and 1/2 size for rings 7-8mm wide. 
  • Ideally you want to be sized with bands that are the same width and fit as the ring that you are getting.

Right now I am working on a ring set for a woman in Australia, and she was sized twice and given dramatically different sizes.  It is also tricky because of international ring size conversion. Then, there is the factor of if the size is off, it’s more expensive to send the rings back and forth for re-sizing. Given all of that she had the great idea of sending me a cheap ring that fit her perfectly. Once I received it I was able check the size on my ring mandrel, and now I can make her rings to the right size.

This ring is a hair smaller than a size 6. Ring size is measure by where the bottom of the ring lines up, or where the ring touches the wider part of the mandrel. So if it is a wide band, the top of the ring might be up around 5.5 or 5.25, but it is the bottom of the ring that you size from. If it is a comfort fit band, then it is sized from the narrowest part of the inside of the band.

Another way to size a ring is by using calipers and measuring the inside diameter of the ring. This is a more precise way to measure a comfort fit band, and in some European countries ring sizes are given as the inner mm diameter, which is really the most accurate way to size a finger and ring.

If you are fairly sure of your ring size, but want to double check before you order your ring, contact us about getting brass rings to try. For a small fee we will send you a brass ring in the ring size that you request plus one 1/2 size larger and one 1/2 smaller -  in the approximate width of the ring you plan on ordering. This is especially useful if you are planning on ordering a wider band or a band with stones. 


Diamond vs. Moissanite vs. White Sapphire November 07 2013

One of the diamond alternatives that I offer is a Moissanite. A Moissanite is a lab-grown gemstone (so it's eco-friendly and conflict-free) that is slightly harder than a sapphire and next in hardness to a diamond. It has as much sparkle as many diamonds, but also has more fire than most diamonds. Fire is the rainbow flashes that you see off a stone. To the average person viewing these two stones with their naked eyes, they would not be able to distinguish the difference between a Moissanite and a diamond. So it is a great option for someone looking for an inexpensive diamond alternative.

There are two types of Moissanites, classic and Forever Brilliant. A Forever Brilliant Moissanite when viewed on a white surface is whiter & brighter than the classic Moissanite. The classic Moissanite, if it were graded on a diamond color scale, would be I-J range and the Forever Brilliant Moissanite would be in the G-H range. 

 

 

Since still photos don't really show the flashes that you get with faceted stones, I made a video so that you can see the difference.  

 

Another diamond alternative that I frequently work with is white sapphire. There is quite a big difference in the fire and brilliance between the two. The white sapphire is great for someone who wants an affordable diamond alternative that is also subtle and not too flashy. Moissanite on the other hand is much more blingy, and is more similar in appearance to a diamond than a sapphire. Below are a couple of pictures that compare them.

 

Photo comparing white sapphire and Moissanite

 


 

A white topaz has a Mohs hardness of 8, white sapphire has a Mohs hardness of 9, a Moissanite has a Mohs hardness of 9.25, and a diamond is a 10. The Mohs scale of mineral hardness characterizes the scratch resistance of various minerals through the ability of a harder material to scratch a softer material. But that scale only tells you how they rank, and diamonds rank as the hardest. What it doesn’t tell you is that a diamond is actually 4x harder than a sapphire. A sapphire being 400 on the hardness scale and a diamond being 1600.

 

 

 

Check out some of the engagement rings that Aide-mémoire Jewelry has in white sapphire, Moissanite, and diamond here


Durability November 07 2013

8mm Hand-carved Classic Band

I get a lot of questions about durability of rings, metal and finishes. There are some metals that are more durable (meaning they hold up better over time), but no wedding band is impervious to wear and tear. Rings take a lot of abuse. Much more so than any other jewelry. All finishes on rings will change over time. A shiny finish will become less shiny and a matte finish will become more shiny. All rings, regardless of the metal, over time, will have scratches and dings. Finishes on rings can be re-done, but at the sacrifice of losing material.

Traditionally wedding bands are made of precious metals (as opposed to industrial metals). The most durable precious metals for wedding bands are going to be platinum, palladium, 10k and 14k gold.

With palladium (platinum too), it has what is called a “fluid surface”. What that means is that unlike gold, when it gets scratched it actually just displaces the metal as opposed to removing it. A gold ring after years of wear will weigh less because metal has been removed through wear, a palladium band will not. However, this does not mean that it won’t scratch or ding. Platinum and palladium can scratch and ding faster than gold, but over many years the band will not become thinner due to wear the way that gold will. 

With gold, 10k is going to be harder than 14k, which is harder than 18k. In general, the higher the gold content, the softer the alloy becomes. 14k is preferred over 18k for durability, and 22k is not recommended for a wedding band. Of the typical gold color alloys, traditional white gold will be the hardest, followed by yellow, then rose. If you are concerned about durability consider a 10k yellow gold, or a 14k white gold band, and steer clear of 18k rose gold.

Sterling silver is a very soft metal, and I don’t usually recommend it for a wedding band. However, there are a few reasons you might choose a sterling silver band:

  • You like the idea of a ring that develop a patina from wear, with each mark demoting the passage of time.
  • For a men’s engagement ring, or a less expensive "starter" wedding ring that will be replaced with a gold, palladium, or platinum wedding band.
  • For someone that knows they are likely to lose it, and don't want the responsibility of something too valuable.
  • To try out the fit and dimensions of a band before committing to a more expensive ring.

Because sterling bends easily, if you do choose a sterling silver ring, consider a thicker band (1.5-2mm thick), or a sterling palladium band. Sterling palladium is a 92.5% sterling silver alloy which contains 3.0% palladium. It is intrinsically harder than standard sterling silver and is more tarnish resistance. However, it is still a type of sterling silver, so it will not be as durable as some other metals.

I offer rings in 1mm thickness because it is often requested. Usually it’s for someone that is looking for a very slim fitting ring. However, if you are very active and do a lot with your hands, a 1mm band is fairly thin and is likely to bend or mis-shape over time. Even going from 1mm thick to 1.25mm thick will increase the durability. But if you do a lot of work with your hands, consider at least a 1.5mm thickness.


Metal Color Reference November 07 2013